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View all stencils βAbout this stencil
Download the Zombie Hands pumpkin stencil as a free printable PDF, then tape the pattern to your pumpkin and trace the lines. Two zombie arms thrust upward side by side on this zombie pumpkin stencil, each one emerging from a ragged torn sleeve at the base, with elongated bony fingers splayed wide and dripping flesh hanging from the wrists. The arms are the solid orange wall while the space around them is pierced away, so the pair of grasping hands glows against a dark background. The skinny finger tips are the most vulnerable pieces, so keep a finger pressed gently on each tip from the outside as you cut around it to prevent the thin point from breaking off. It works as a carving template for a Halloween jack-o'-lantern or a fall porch display. It is rated Advanced. Estimated time: 90-150 minutes. Actual time varies with preparation, pumpkin size and experience. Fine details and narrow supports need careful planning. Follow the cutting and shading key in this designβs PDF.
Pumpkin size guide
- π Small (5 to 7"): print at 80%
- π Medium (7 to 10"): print at 100% (recommended)
- π Large (11 to 13"): print at 130%
- π Giant (14"+): print at 150% on tabloid paper
Frequently asked questions
Can I resize this stencil?βΎ
Yes. The PDF is vector so it scales cleanly. Print the pattern at 100% for a 7 to 10 inch pumpkin, 130% for 11 to 13 inch, or 150% for a giant. Use your printer's "Fit to page" or "Custom scale" setting.
What kind of paper works best?βΎ
Standard 20 lb letter or A4 printer paper is fine. Heavier paper is harder to bend around the pumpkin curve. If your printer supports it, set the quality to 'best' so the lines are crisp.
How long will the carved pumpkin last?βΎ
Usually 5 to 10 days. Coat all cut surfaces with petroleum jelly and store the pumpkin somewhere cool overnight. Avoid direct sun. Battery LED pumpkin lights produce no heat and help it last longer.
Can I sell pumpkins carved with this stencil?βΎ
Yes, the carved pumpkin you make is yours. The license covers personal and small-scale commercial carving (selling carved pumpkins, photographing them, posting on social). You may not resell the PDF file itself.
What if my printer doesn't print the whole stencil?βΎ
Set 'Page scaling' to 'Fit' in the print dialog and uncheck 'Auto-rotate'. If it still cuts off, the design includes 0.25" of safe-area margin so a small crop won't ruin it.
How to carve this stencil
This is a cut-through stencil: the gray areas on the printable pattern are the pieces you remove, and everything white stays attached. The steps below give you the safest carving order. Plan on about 90-150 minutes from print to candle.
Set up first. Print the PDF at 100% scale on letter or A4 paper. Cut the lid at an angle, scoop the pumpkin clean, and thin the carving wall to about 1 inch where the design will sit. Tape the pattern on (snip small darts in the paper so it hugs the curve) and transfer every outline by poking dots along the lines, about one every 1/8 inch. Peel the paper away and carve dot to dot with short, straight strokes.
Carving order
- Carve the fingers first. Each hand ends in long tapered fingers. Cut every finger from its tip down toward the palm, one at a time, keeping a fingertip pressed lightly behind the shell for support.
- Cut the palms and wrists. Remove the hand and forearm shapes next. Keep the jagged white tear lines that cross each wrist intact; those bridges separate the pieces and hold the design together.
- Cut the tattered sleeve shapes. Carve the ragged triangular pieces below each arm. Their drips and points are fragile, so cut into every point from both directions and meet at the tip.
- Release the ground mounds last. Finish with the low mound at the base of each arm. Leave a small tab on each until the outline is done, then slice the tabs and push the plugs out gently.
Clear loose fibers out of each opening as you go, and never twist or pry the blade against the shell; back it out and recut instead. When every piece is out, wipe the cut edges dry and drop in a battery LED puck.
Tools you'll need
For a advanced carve like this you'll want a fine-detail pumpkin saw, spoon / scoop, pin transfer tool, and small gouge if the pattern includes shading. Here's the kit we reach for, but start with whatever you already own.

Elmchee Pumpkin Carving Kit
13-piece kit with carrying case
Saws for the larger cutouts, plus a scoop for hollowing. Covers both jobs in one kit.
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HOME MOST LED Pumpkin Lights
4-pack, battery operated, with remote + timer
Orange glow made for jack-o'-lanterns. The remote and timer light the pumpkin every evening without reaching inside.
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Speedball 4131 Lino Cutter Set
Handle + 5 interchangeable cutters
Interchangeable cutters for peeling and shading the face. Useful for the finer details.
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Two zombie figures rising from the ground face inward in this hard pumpkin stencil, their ragged arms reaching upward and their tattered lower bodies emerging from earth at the base of a tall oval negative space. The zombies read as solid orange silhouettes flanking a large central open oval, so the lit jack-o-lantern glows through that oval while the outstretched zombie arms and rotting fingers stand out in relief. Carve the finger details at the top of each arm before cutting the large central oval, as the fingers are the most fragile elements and benefit from the extra pumpkin mass still in place.
Beginner-friendlyZombie Hand Pumpkin Stencil
A zombie hand clawing upward from the ground is the subject of this beginner zombie pumpkin stencil. The fingers are spread wide and elongated, separated by narrow solid bridges of pumpkin that keep each digit distinct when lit. A ragged cuff at the wrist and a puddle-like base anchor the composition at the bottom. The carved areas glow dramatically against the uncut pumpkin surface, suggesting a corpse emerging from the earth. Leave the slender bridges between the fingers for last so the hand shape stays supported while you remove the larger flanking areas.
AdvancedZombie Arm Pumpkin Stencil
A single decayed zombie arm reaches upward from the ground in this pumpkin stencil, the skeletal hand and bony fingers clawing into empty space while the forearm and sleeve taper to a ragged ground line at the base. The design is mostly one large connected negative-space cut with thin solid bridges defining the sleeve folds and individual finger bones. Cut the individual finger separations before releasing the large arm opening so the fingertips stay supported until the end.
AdvancedZombie Jack-o-Lantern Pumpkin Stencil
A zombie jack-o-lantern face built from two large ringed eyes with small round pupils, curved eyebrows, tiny paired nose holes, and a wide rectangular mouth filled with jagged uneven teeth above and below. The bulging eyes retain orange rings between the outer circle and pupil circle, creating a wild, spinning stare when lit. The two circular eye rings are floating islands that must be secured; after cutting each outer eye circle, press the ring from the inside so it sits flush before removing the surrounding pumpkin section.
Expert / ProZombies Pumpkin Stencil
The word "ZOMBIES" in dripping, horror-font letters anchors this stencil, with a row of grasping undead arms and hands rising above the text from a pool of slime below. All the negative space around the letters and arms is cut away, leaving the drip shapes and reaching fingers glowing against the pumpkin flesh. The thin drip strands between letters are the most fragile part of this carving, so cut each letter interior first and leave the connecting drips until the very end.
Expert / ProZombie with Skull Pumpkin Stencil
A tall zombie figure stands upright inside a large oval frame in this expert-level pumpkin stencil, one arm raised and holding a dripping severed skull. The body is rendered as a jagged silhouette of tattered flesh and clawed feet set against the solid oval background, while the skull dangling from the raised hand adds a second, smaller focal point within the composition. Because the zombie's body is a narrow silhouette surrounded by the large pierced oval, cut the oval background first and leave the figure's connection points at the base until last to keep the thin leg and claw details from breaking free prematurely.





